Stop By This New "Secret Garden" On Atlantic Ave For Terrific Bar Food

Scott Lynch

Published Jul 14, 2020

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Flamin' Hot Cheeto Wings ($12)

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

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Scott Lynch

Published Jul 14, 2020

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Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to Atlantic Ave for a burger, fries, and Flamin' Hot Cheeto Wings.

THE VIBE

On the border of Clinton Hill and Crown Heights, right where Atlantic Avenue feels most like a highway — with auto repair shops and hulking storage facilities dominating the landscape, and pedestrian traffic more of a pipe dream — this is where Behzad Hadizadeh has opened his first-ever bar and restaurant, Brooklyn Noosh. And this was just two weeks ago during the pandemic, with indoor drinking and dining not even on the horizon.

Hadizadeh owns the building, so there's no landlord to worry about, and he started construction before COVID hit—Hadizadeh's a licensed plumber, and did most of the work himself—so he had already invested so much energy and money into the thing, why not open? Most important, it turns out Brooklyn Noosh had a built-in secret weapon, a wide, no frills outdoor space fronting Grand Street that was easily convertible into an outdoor dining space. The tables are all comfortably distanced, and it's certainly secluded from the chaos of Atlantic Ave.

In terms of pandemic protocols, Hadizadeh and your server are properly masked (as you should be), gloved when delivering food, and instinctively give as much room as possible during all interactions. Brooklyn Noosh does use non-disposable dishes, utensils, and glassware, which is a bit unusual these days but still in compliance with NYS outdoor dining guidelines. For the first time since March someone brought me a carafe of cold water to enjoy with my meal, and I must say it felt like such a wonderful luxury. The inside bathroom is open to customers, and passage through a Kendo studio (Hadizadeh is a practitioner of the Japanese martial art) on your way there is an unexpected bonus.

THE BITES

The isolated seating area is obviously appealing, but the primary reason to go to Brooklyn Noosh is the food. The chef here is Jesus Cruz, a young man with experience in several kitchens around town, and not only does he show a deft touch with simple, meaty dishes, he also clearly cares about what he's doing.

Take the Flamin' Hot Cheeto Wings, which are crisp-fried chicken wings dusted with the crushed-up snack food. This could be a dumb gimmick dish, but Cruz pays attention to the balance among flavors and textures, and the bird bits are remarkably plump and juicy. It's both addictive and delicious. Same goes for the pleasantly smoky Bourbon BBQ Wings, which Cruz serves sauced-up and messy, and which I devoured as quickly as I could get them into my mouth.

The Cheddar Burger is fantastic, the fat patty cooked perfectly medium rare as requested and sitting in unfussy fashion atop a bed of lettuce, tomato, and mayo, with ketchup on the side. The accompanying fries were also first-rate, a semi-crisp, well-seasoned, beautifully browned mound of potatoes. If you've been craving a burger-and-fries plate during the pandemic, the Brooklyn Noosh version will totally satisfy.

There are three types of Kabobs on the menu, and the lamb was, again, grilled exactly right, the chunks of meat tender and full of funky flavor. You can get fries with these (or rice), but the pictured salad was a fine no-carb option. And before your feast begins your server brings out a complimentary plate of grilled homemade bread with a crock of basil butter and a handful of oiled-up cherry tomatoes. A free snack that required time, effort, and love to prepare? There's something you don't see everyday!

THE VERDICT

Bed-Stuy, Crown Heights, and Clinton Hill locals: take a stroll or ride a bike over to Brooklyn Noosh for some excellent bar food and a few drinks. It's a solid neighborhood spot waiting to be discovered.

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

Brooklyn Noosh is located at 988 Atlantic Avenue, with the entrance to the outdoor dining area on Grand Street around the corner, and is currently open on Tuesday through Saturday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., and on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (@brooklynoosh)

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quick bites

Brooklyn Noosh