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Stellar Breakfast Burritos And Pastries Come To Crown Heights
By
Scott Lynch
Published Oct 7, 2020
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Oct 7, 2020
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Did you ever make it over to Awkward Scone, Eric See and Erin Emmett's excellent bakery on the Bed-Stuy - Bushwick border? Maybe for one of See's exceptional Breakfast Burritos, stuffed with hatch chiles from his native New Mexico? The Awkward was there for a little over a year, and had become a pleasant, welcoming gathering space, until COVID-19 destroyed the catering part of the business, and thus the business as a whole.
Now See is back, this time as a solo act, with Ursula — a bakery and outdoor-seating cafe that opened last week on Sterling Place just west of Bedford Avenue in Crown Heights. Named after his grandmother, the new place offers See another opportunity to bring authentic New Mexican flavors to Brooklyn, with a full menu of sweet and savory treats, many inspired by family recipes and prepared with Southwestern flair. And those green and red hatch chiles, which he (or sometimes his mom) brings in by the bagful from his hometown connection, are back.
There's a lot to love about Ursula, but the headline here might be that See's Breakfast Burritos are available once again, and in four varieties: Chorizo with scrambled eggs, hash browns, cheddar cheese, and red chiles; Bacon with the same except this time green chiles; a Vegetarian version with no meat; and a Vegan version with pinto beans, hash browns, and chiles. I devoured the Chorizo one on Saturday and it was exactly as amazing as I remember. Just gloppy as hell and exploding with outsized flavors.
The kitchen at Ursula is too small to make these beauties and anything else at the same time, so at noon, See shuts down burrito production and starts in on the Stuffed Sopaipillas, a giant pocket of fried dough filled with either Carne Adovada, a New Mexican marinated pork dish, or Ground Beef, both with refried beans, cheese, and, of course, red or green chiles. The vegan Poblano Relleno is a lovely dish, the pepper bursting with a quinoa, roasted corn, and cauliflower rice mix enlivened by a tomato-ancho sauce. Somewhat randomly, but also deliciously, See will also make you a Smoked Turkey BLT on a housemade brioche bun.
Apple-Cheddar Green Chile Pastelito ($6), Mexican Wedding Cookie ($2), Biscochito ($3) and Passion Fruit Red Chile Donut ($3.75)
Above all else though, See is a baker at heart, and there are lots of his pastries here from which to choose. Get to Ursula early to snag one of his knee-buckling Passion Fruit Red Chile Donuts before they sell out, or for the savory pastry fans, an excellent Blue Corn Scone studded with green chiles. The vegan Arroz con Leche is thick and sweet and topped with poached apricots, the Biscochito is a must for cinnamon fans, and the crackling (but also chewy!) Mexican Wedding Cookie is probably the best I've ever had. There's also a full coffee menu, and a bunch of loose-leaf teas available.
Ursula was conceived and constructed during the pandemic — See got lucky with a fair sublease on the space from a friend — so the design maximizes the kitchen space, with room for just one person or party at a time to come inside and order from a friendly, masked-up counter person behind a wall of plexiglass. Everything is packed up in to-go fashion, and will be brought to you as you wait outside, but there are about a dozen places to sit and enjoy your food set up on Sterling. It's tough to create a community space in the COVID era, but See, who lives just a few blocks away, is doing his best to welcome the neighborhood in.
Ursula is located at 724 Sterling Place, just west of Bedford Avenue, and is currently open on Wednesday and Thursday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and on Friday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday (ursulabk.com)
Tagged
Crown Heights
Ursula
brooklyn
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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