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Speedy Romeo Chef Opens Stellar Mexican Spot Oxomoco In Greenpoint
By
Scott Lynch
Published Jun 12, 2018
Modified Jun 12, 2018
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Scott Lynch / Gothamist
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Jun 12, 2018
Modified Jun 12, 2018
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Our latest edition of Quick Bites brings us to a gorgeous new spot in Greenpoint.
THE VIBE
Oxomoco, which opened last week on Greenpoint Avenue, is a straight-up stunner. There's a large, lovely front patio surrounded by succulents, and the multiple skylights inside are the perfect amenity for these long summer days. The curvy, dramatically backlit bar is beautiful, with light wood, caramel leather, wicker chairs, and lots of white paint keep it all feeling bright and cheerful.
The restaurant is co-owned by chef Justin Bazdarich, who turned neighborhood pizza place Speedy Romeo into a beloved hangout (his second Speedy Romeo, on the Lower East Side, is just as good, though inevitably more of a party spot). Bazdarich's partner in this venture is his lifelong friend Chris Walton, a restaurateur and real estate guy with some success in Arizona. Neither of which guaranteed such a near-perfect opening of this ambitious Mexican restaurant, but they definitely pulled it off.
Oxomoco, pronounced like "oh-sho-mo-co," is named for the Atzec goddess of the night, and your server might launch into a spiel about her mystical qualities and how it infuses the cuisine, but I couldn't really follow along and you don't have to either. Just know that everyone seems excited to be working here, and their enthusiasm is both charming and infectious.
(Scott Lynch / Gothamist)
THE BITES
The food at Oxomoco is taken from traditions from all over Mexico, but the constant throughout the menu is smoke and charring from the kitchen's wood-fire oven. The best two "snacks," for example, are the crock of fiercely addictive Red Skinned Peanuts, peppered with smoked chilies and garlic cloves that are so delightfully chewy they eat like dried fruit; and the thick slices of Smoked Mango dusted with chili pepper, a delightful take on the classic street treat. Both of the ceviche apps we ate also had smoky elements to them—in the creamy avocado that came with the Fluke, and in the rhubarb that covered (and gave a bright red color to) the Hamachi. Both were fantastic.
Tacos, which arrive in pairs, form the largest section of the Oxomoco menu, and here are the four varieties we ate on consecutive nights last week, ranked: the beautifully funky Pork Cheek Carnitas with crackling chicharron; the Swordfish Achiote, the big, tender chunks of fish holding their own under a barrage of lively flavors, including habanero salsa; the rich and earthy Grilled Asparagus, which comes with fat morels, chipotle, and ramps; and the overwhelming Chicken Al Pastor, which was the only real "miss" in any category over two large meals.
There's a lot more great food to eat here, too. The Tlayuda is terrific—a thin, crisp tortilla layered with lardo, refried beans, melted salty "string" cheese, and a grassy pipicha salsa. Even the Guacamole offers fresh thrills, thanks to a liberal sprinkling of queso fresco and whole smoked cherry tomatoes. And after all that smoke, salt, and heat, your table will need at least one of the Oxomoco desserts. Either of these will do the trick: the tart and tangy Hoja Santa Curd with smoked strawberry, lime drizzle, and raspberry ice; or the Oaxacan Chocolate Cake, a sweet and wonderful tower of dense pastry, a sticky disc of cajeta, walnut crumble, and vanilla ice cream.
THE VERDICT
Oxomoco is an exciting, enormously appealing restaurant, a big winner on all fronts that will likely be hopping all summer. And if you have to wait for a table inside, the comfortable front terrace is not a bad spot at all for a drink or two while doing so.
Oxomoco is located at 128 Greenpoint Avenue between Manhattan and Franklin and is open for now on Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Closed Mondays. Reservations accepted starting next week. (646-688-4180; oxomoconyc.com)
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greenpoint
oxomoco
quick bites
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Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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