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Rick Bayless Opens Fast-Casual Mexican Spot In Flatiron District
By
Scott Lynch
Published Oct 4, 2021
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Oct 4, 2021
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It feels like Mexican food superfan Rick Bayless has been famous forever--the PBS show that first put him in the spotlight, Cooking Mexican, aired way back in 1978. But even though the chef has built something of a mini-empire in Chicago, and is nationally known for his numerous cookbooks, Frontera-brand packaged foods, TV appearances, and charitable foundations, he has never had a restaurant in New York City. Until now.
Tortazo, which opened about two weeks ago near Madison Square Park, is a colorful, spacious, fast-casual spinoff of Bayless's popular Willis Tower spot of the same name. Much of that space is out on Broadway, where Tortazo has an enviable setup in the street, so get here before winter hits (or on a non-rainy night). Tortazo just got its liquor license last week, and cocktails "de las casa," margaritas, mezcal flights ($18 to $36), as well as beer and wine in bottles and cans are in ample supply.
Like its sister restaurant in Chicago, the NoMad Tortazo menu is anchored by tortas, Mexican sandwiches served on soft telera rolls (in this case, from D&R Central Bakery in the Bronx), brushed with black beans and seared on a plancha. The headliner in this category is Bayless's Crispy Chicken Milanesa, which is enlivened by piles of juicy slaw and plenty of jalapeños. There's also a Cubana torta starring smoked pork loin, bacon, and jack cheese; a Conchinita Pibil with pork shoulder and pasilla chili broth for dipping; and a vegetarian option involving roasted mushrooms and goat cheese.
Flour tortillas make an appearance with Tortazo's Steak and Mushroom Quesadilla, a well-executed comfort food dish that satisfies that very specific craving for something gooey and oozy. Dump the accompanying green salsa on this baby with abandon. Tortillas of a crisper variety can be found latticed throughout the bowl of decent Chicken Chilaquiles, the Camarones al Mojo, and the Tortilla Soup. Chips and Guacamole, Esquites, and a 1980s-sounding Taqueria salad are among the expected classics.
Tortazo jumps on the tlayuda bandwagon with a Roasted Beets and Goat Cheese version of the crisp, Oaxacan "pizza," which is helped considerably by a layer of melted jack cheese on the thin, crunchy tostada. The tlayuda is also vegetarian, as is the somewhat odd Spicy Churro Bites, which can function somewhat like fries when eaten with your torta.
Crispy Chicken Milanesa Torta ($14)
The senior management team at Tortazo has roots at both Eleven Madison Park and Union Square Hospitality, and the amiable, eager, impressively large staff acts accordingly. You order at the counter inside, grab one of those number signs for your table, and a runner brings your food and busses your table. This is a solid addition to the area, either for a quick bite or a place to lounge in the street with friends and drinks.
Tortazo is located at 1123 Broadway, between 25th and 26th Streets, and is currently open on Monday through Wednesday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.. Closed Sunday (212-920-3722; tortazo.com)
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rick bayless
flatiron
Tortazo
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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