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Restaurant Glimpse - Trestle on Tenth
By
Andrew Gottlieb
Published Jul 25, 2006
Modified Mar 7, 2008
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By
Andrew Gottlieb
Published Jul 25, 2006
Modified Mar 7, 2008
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Recently the occasion popped up to go by Trestle on Tenth, the newest restaurant on this still burgeoning, food focused stretch of Tenth Avenue north of 14th Street.
Chef and owner Ralf Kuettel has set up camp with modernized versions of dishes from his native Switzerland. Not knowing what to expect was a welcome plus for the experience (not another Italian restaurant, thank god) and the dishes surely did not disappoint. For that matter neither did the comfortable exposed brick room or the incredibly eclectic, smartly sourced wine selection.
From initial nibbles of marinated golden beets to a small dessert bowl of summer fruits ($9) containing berries, peaches, honey and basil, all the food sampled at Trestle on Tenth was flavorful, interesting and well balanced.
While unable to relate the dishes tasted back to potential Swiss inspirations due to the narrowness of our Swiss exposure (a layover on Bern and many, many pounds of the eponymous cheese), Gothamist is happy to report that dishes were composed of perfectly cooked top-notch ingredients, skirted with flavor packed sauces. Superstar of the night was a crepinette of braised pork shoulder ($11) served with wilted nettles and a rich jus. Other highlights were a rustic oxtail and pig’s foot terrine ($12.50) that came with a housemade spicy mustard, cauliflower soup with a shower of chervil ($8), and an earthy, but not gamey, saddle of lamb (temped spot on at rare plus) with mustard greens ($25) and another luscious sauce built around lamb stock.
This place is a winner, and although foiled recently by their six day a week schedule that had them closed Monday nights, a return visit is surely in the master chow queue.
Trestle on Tenth is located at 242 Tenth Avenue, corner of 24th Street - 212-645-5569
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italian
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Tenth Avenue
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Andrew Gottlieb
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