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Noodle Classics From All Over China Now Available In Midtown
By
Scott Lynch
Published Feb 4, 2021
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Feb 4, 2021
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Midtown Manhattan can always use a new quick-bite option, and this is a good one. Opened recently on West 45th Street near Times Square and Bryant Park, Noodle Edition is a spacious, sleek-looking counter-service spot featuring a menu of tossed (not broth-ed) noodle dishes from six different regions of China.
The team running the show know what they're doing: owner Yishu He is a partner at the excellent Málà Project, and the chef here at Noodle Edition is Yuchun Cheung (who runs the kitchen along with He, at the well-regarded Little Alley in Murray Hill). The duo began their planning for Noodle Edition in pre-Covid times — He hopes to go big with the concept someday, as a way of bringing traditional Chinese cuisine to the broadest possible audience, but for now the takeout- and delivery-friendly menu works nicely in our current, distanced-dining era.
I visited Noodle Edition in its opening days, ordering my feast through plexiglass shields and slurping it all down at one of the tables by the rink in Bryant Park. Everything was good, and deeply satisfying.
Scallion and Shrimp ($12)
Definitely get the Tingly Pork Noodles from Chengdu, which could have used a bit more tingle to be honest, but was loaded with well-seasoned meat and had a nice bite to it. The Beef Offal Noodles from Xinjiang were solid as well, the chunks of cow stomach, tendon, and shank all tender and funky, the noodles here sticky with housemade chili oil. I also liked my Scallion and Shrimp Noodles from Shanghai, which had enough of those tiny, chewy dried crustaceans to keep things interesting.
Other noodles include a Stir-Fried Udon from Shanghai, a version of one of Little Alley's most popular dishes, thick with shrimp, pork, and shiitake mushrooms; Dan Dan Noodles from Chongqing, and Sizzling Sesame Noodles from Wuhan. There are a few side dishes available too, like a Crispy Pork Cutlet, sliced up for easy eating; a vinegary boat of Marinated Cucumber; a six-pack of plump, pleasantly greasy Pork Potstickers; and, my choice on a cold afternoon, a hot cup of intense Wakame Bone Broth, made with seaweed and pork short rib.
He and Cheung plan on expanding the menu in the coming months, with favorites from Beijing and Xi'an, among other places. And hopefully we'll get to actually use that 25-seat indoor dining room at some point this year; the storefront sits in front of a fire hydrant, so He can't build any sort of outdoor dining setup outdoors. Maybe he could put up a more prominent sign in the window though? I worry that what little Midtown foot traffic there is these days won't even notice all the noodles that await them inside.
Noodle Edition is located at 18 West 45th Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues, and is currently open on Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. (845-495-3559; noodleeditionnyc.com)
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Noodle Edition
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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