New Hidden Sandwich Shop L'itos Opens Under The Manhattan Bridge

Scott Lynch

Published Oct 9, 2020

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Lasagna ($13)

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

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Scott Lynch

Published Oct 9, 2020

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If you aren't specifically looking for L'itos, you probably aren't going to find it. This stretch of Henry Street, running beneath the roar of the Manhattan Bridge and littered with stripped appliances, isn't exactly an aimless-wanderer's paradise. And even if you were armed with L'itos' exact address you might pass by the place without noticing, given that the sign outside still says Tony Brick Oven Pizza, a holdover from the previous tenant's short-lived stay here.

Ah, but if you're in the mood to wolf down a first-rate slab of Lasagna, or maybe grab a sandwich or two to take over to the skate park, a visit to L'itos is worth the hunt. Owned and operated by Ashley Santoro and Sarah Krathen, this tiny takeout cafe opened about a week ago to zero hype but lots of love from the pair's many friends. It's a bit of a work in progress, with an evolving menu and on-site seating still to be worked out, but both women described L'itos as a highly personal project, and they are excited to be a part of a neighborhood filled with community-minded food businesses, from Kopitiam to Golden Diner to Partybus Bakeshop.

Not that the two of them haven't been around. Krathen grew up in Key West and graduated from the Culinary Institute of America before landing (and sticking) in NYC. Among her many restaurant-related roles over the past twenty years include co-ownership of the well-regarded Sorella on Allen Street, which enjoyed a five-year run on what was then a fairly desolate block at night. And Santoro, a sommelier by trade, is already ensconced on Henry Street, running the year-old wine shop Leiser right next door.

The short (for now) menu feels somewhat random, but every dish has meaning. The ham, mustard, and pickle hero, for example, is called the Ash (for Santoro) because it's her favorite. The Morty just stands for mortadella, because mortadella is awesome, and is here topped with hot peppers and slathered with more mayo than I've eaten in years. And the Stevie is a pastrami-based creation honoring Krathen's father (and her namesake dog). Don't expect a classic NYC piled-high-on-rye construction though — Krathen makes her pastrami sandwich the way her dad used to like it, "Philadelphia-style," with Russian dressing, lots of coleslaw, and stuffed inside a pita.

Matzoh Ball Soup ($12)

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

There's a Crunchy Vinegary Salad on offer, and plastic tubs filled with rich Matzoh Ball Soup, but the star of the show here is definitely Krathen's Lasagna — a cheesy, meaty stack of pasta that's both crusty and chewy, with a little bit of hot-sauce fire burning in the background of each bite. It's delicious. Krathen first started experimenting with the dish at home during the pandemic's early shutdown days, and sold slabs of the stuff through the wine cafe Niche Niche in the spring. She didn't plan on bringing it to L'itos — it's not really a sandwich shop sort of dish — but at this point it's become her signature, so she's stuck with it.

Krathen and Santoro's friend Dria Atencio chips in sometimes with baked goods, and if the gooey Lemon Square that came fresh out of the oven this week is any indication of her skills, I will be back for more of her sweets. And maybe by then I'll be able to sit outside at a table while I do it! Krathen said they're still working on how best to accommodate their guests. There are two stools at a counter inside, but technically that means even solo diners are exceeding the current 25% capacity rule. For now, I suggest walking two blocks down to the LES Coleman Skatepark, and watching the skaters practice their tricks while you eat.

As far as the name L'itos goes, I'll just let Krathen explain: "The name is a story! My old restaurant was called Sorella, which means sister, and we named it that because my best friend and I who opened it were close like sisters. She was an only child, but I had a sister who was pissed haha. Her name is Rachel, but for no real reason my dad called her Ito Mcvito. He was really funny. So it’s named after that, and the l’ made it fancier."

L'itos is located at 83 Henry Street, between Pike and Forsyth Streets, and is currently open on Tuesday through Saturday from noon to 8 p.m. (litosnyc.com)

Tagged

L'itos

sandwiches

lasagna