New French Restaurant And Lounge Cafe Tallulah Brings The Sexy To The Upper West Side

Nell Casey

Published Jan 17, 2013

Modified Jan 18, 2013

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Nell Casey

Published Jan 17, 2013

Modified Jan 18, 2013

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A long desolate storefront on the Upper West Side has gotten a much-needed new tenant now that restaurant and lounge Cafe Tallulah has opened on the corner of Columbus Avenue and 71st Street. The tortured space had sat vacant since 2005 when Asian fusion spot Penang moved around the corner and plans for a clothing store fell through. Now it looks like the neighborhood's distressing wait is finally over.

Restauranteur Greg Hunt has "dreamed of opening a sophisticated French bistro and cocktail lounge" in the neighborhood for years, and has brought on a well-seasoned team of professionals to realize his vision. Chef Roxanne Spruance, an alum of both wd~50 and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, helms the kitchen and Employees Only mixologist Dushan Zaric has created a complementary cocktail program. The bi-level space houses both a full service restaurant and bar upstairs, including an enclosed sidewalk cafe and the longest bar on the Upper West Side. Downstairs, an intimate lounge with antique furniture and a billiards table opens on Fridays and Saturdays for a cosmopolitan atmosphere not found elsewhere in the neighborhood.

Classic French bistro fare makes up most of Chef Spruance's menu, with some inventive flair that makes each dish unique. A steaming bowl of Moules Frites ($23) comes flavored with saffron, chorizo, tarragon, fennel, cream and white wine; the decadent Langoustine Risotto ($36) also includes black truffle and two types of imported French cheese. More daring diners can try Chef Spruance's treatment of Ris de Veau ($14), calf sweetbreads with sweet potato, banana, stout, cashews and celery. Creative desserts by pastry chef Sarah Sutherland (Marea) are equally intriguing, like the Gateau au Fromage ($12): White Port Granita, Danish Gorgonzola, Honey Mousse, Pistachio Presse, Bosc Pear and Lavender.

Cafe Tallulah channels a sexy, je ne sais quoi style with low-lighting, lots of exposed brick and opulent touches like velvet curtains and vintage chandeliers. If you weren't sure what the vibe was supposed to be, the enlarged portrait of French screen siren Brigitte Bardot should clue you in. Zaric's cocktails are perhaps best enjoyed at one of the cafe's two bars, where you can watch as bartenders craft the namesake "Tallulah," with Rottenhouse rye, Dolin Rouge, Orange Curacao and bitters or the very French "Provencale" with lavender-infused gin, Herbs de Provence-infused Vermouth and Cointreau.

240 Columbus Avenue // (212) 209-1055 // Upstairs restaurant/bar open 4 p.m. to 2 a.m daily; Downstairs Lounge open 8 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday.

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Nell Casey

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