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Check Out The 100-Year Old Tilework Revealed At Le Fournil Bakery, In The Old Moishe's Space
By
Scott Lynch
Published Jan 6, 2020
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Jan 6, 2020
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There's been a bakery on the ground floor of 115 Second Avenue for a long time now, possibly as far back as the early 1900s, though the exact history is murky. What we do know for sure is that the place used to be Ratner's Bake House, an offshoot of the famous dairy restaurant a couple of doors down that neatly made the transition from Yiddish Theater District mainstay to hippie hangout in the days of the Fillmore East.
Then came Moishe's, which sold classic NYC pastries (hamantaschen, black & white cookies) from the mid-1970s until owner and baker Moishe Pearl retired last year. While Pearl still owns the building, investor Jay Schwimmer signed a 21-year rental lease on the building last winter, with an option to buy.
Six months ago is where the story really gets interesting for appreciators of historic interiors. That's when Jean-Francois Hebert took over the Moishe's space, to open his own bakery called Le Fournil. Hebert is a third-generation baker from Normandy, France, who's been living in New York for eight years and working at places like Felix in SoHo and Cafe du Soleil on the Upper West Side. When he got started on the space, he noticed some uncared for but intriguing and lovely tilework in the back kitchen. He had a feeling it might extend all the way to the street, and when he tore down Moishe's dummy walls and drop ceiling, voilà, there was a masterpiece hidden beneath.
Behind Moishe's dummy walls and drop ceiling there was a masterpiece hidden beneath: this old tilework.
It took six months of careful cleaning, but it's remarkable what good shape it's all in, with most of the real, original gold leaf still blossoms from the design as well. Herbert and his crew also took down the tin ceiling during that time, piece by piece, to restore and repaint it; it was previously covered by a drop ceiling.
Among these historical elements are a large antique industrial dough mixer that Herbert discovered upstairs and brought down to show off, along with an impossibly heavy old work table and a vintage leather sofa, both of which he also found on site. His personal addition to the decor are a pair of framed flour sacks from the 1940s, remnants from when U.S. soldiers gave them to his grandmother in Normandy shortly after D-Day.
All historic interest aside, a bakery is only really as good and as its pastry, and, thankfully, Herbert has that covered. All throughout the day he brings out baskets of freshly made croissants and baguettes (help yourself to the jars of Bonne Mamam jam), flakey fruit danishes and dense sugar breads, rye loaves, cinnamon rolls and savory delights like spinach ricotta puff pastries. Everything is as rich and buttery as you would hope. There are also pre-made sandwiches, salads, and yogurt-granola parfait cups. Plus coffee, of course.
Herbert is an affable host, and is keen to make Le Fournil an inviting community space where you can sit and enjoy a chat (or a board game) with a friend, as much as a reliable spot to grab a baguette on your way home for dinner. Though only open for a couple of weeks now, he's off to a good start.
Le Fournil is located at 115 Second Avenue, between Sixth and Seventh streets, and is currently open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. Expanded hours are coming soon. Follow them @lefournilnyc on Instagram.
Tagged
bakery
east village
le fournil
moishes bake shop
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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