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Cozy New Alphabet City Eatery APT-13 Makes Wine Pairings A Breeze
By
Nell Casey
Published Oct 11, 2013
Modified Oct 11, 2013
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By
Nell Casey
Published Oct 11, 2013
Modified Oct 11, 2013
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APT-13, a cheery new restaurant in Alphabet City, wants to alleviate any anxiety diners face when choosing which beverage to pair with their meal. Chef John Keller and his partners Lorrae Doig, Steve Olson and Leo DeGroff offer multiple wine, beer and spirit suggestions underneath each dish on the menu, guaranteeing you won't end up with an off-putting flavor as you're enjoying your halibut. It's not dissimilar to the fancy tasting menus so popular with restaurants these days, only you have the freedom to eat whatever you'd like and, even better, at a much lower price.
Chef Keller describes his cuisine as "New York," with nods to both Japanese and Carribean flavors. Standouts on the seafood-flecked menu include the Hamachi Crudo ($13)—fresh yellowtail in a slightly spicy bath of smoked tomato ponzu, yuzu kosho with garnish of toasted garlic and peppercress—and the Fish Tea ($27), which bathes meaty halibut in a fragrant and delicate broth of miso butter and lemongrass dashi. Keller borrows his grandmother's recipe for the Mimi's Maryland Crabcake ($13), which came packed with tender lumps of crab in a sweet-and-spicy chutney at a recent press preview. He's also doing an intensely flavorful Steak & Fries ($29) with a rye demi-glace and a Parpadelle "Bolognese" with organic meat sauce ($11) or vegan quinoia "meat sauce" ($18).
The bi-level space boasts two outdoor areas, including a ground-floor patio and a second floor terrace, which is enclosed during the cooler months. As the temperature dips, the fireplace offers a cozy glow in the upstairs dining room while gorgeous amber-color banquettes provide comfortable seating downstairs. At the long front room bar, get recommendations from staff to accompany your oysters and Littlenecks; the bar offers a large selection of sherries, shochus and sakes, as well as punches and other fun cocktails.
115 Loisaida Avenue (Avenue C), (917) 475-1213; apt-13.com
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