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Classic Chinatown Spot Hop Kee Reopens For Takeout
By
Scott Lynch
Published May 19, 2020
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Scott Lynch
Published May 19, 2020
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Hop Kee is one of the oldest restaurants in Manhattan's Chinatown, serving up Cantonese food since 1968 in the basement at the corner of Mott and Mosco (formerly home to another legendary spot, Tingyatsak). Earlier this year, as the coronavirus hit New York, second-generation owner Peter Lee made the painful decision to shut down completely, a decision that came a couple of days before Mayor Bill de Blasio's order made it mandatory; like all restaurants in this neighborhood, Hop Kee had already suffered an alarming decline in business by this time.
Lee wasn't the only one to close up at the time, and historic Chinatown became something of a ghost town. But now, there's some hope, as some of the lights are switching back on— Nom Wah Tea Parlor reopened for takeout this past weekend, and earlier this month, Hop Kee reopened its doors, with limited hours but a full menu available for takeout only.
Last week I made the trip down those steep stairs to order some of Hop Kee's signature American-Cantonese classics, and standing in the old place, albeit just by the register, provoked such a rush of feelings, bouncing between sadness and nostalgia, excitement and hope. When's the last time you were physically inside of a restaurant, even for a moment? It's a weird thing, to have such a core part of your life become a novelty again.
A little bit of everything
There are, of course, scores of options from which to choose at Hop Kee, including Moo Shu Pork, Chop Suey, Egg Rolls, Moo Goo Gai Pan, and Sweet and Pungent Pork. I had a long bike ride home so went with simple stuff that would keep well, and several hours later enjoyed every minute of my reheated feast.
The Roast Pork with String Beans featured tender, funky strips of pig in a salty black sauce. The chunks of meat in the Chicken with Cashew Nuts were also skillfully prepared, with lots of mushrooms hidden within to keep things interesting. And the multi-ingredient Young Chow Fried Rice housed a generous population of plump, sweet shrimp. All of the portions were large, and three dishes could have fed four people comfortably.
This Chinatown institution needs support, and soon. It's going to be a long time before local families once again pack into the booths of Hop Kee's sprawling, subterranean dining room, and the gentleman who took my order conceded that business has been slow since the reopening on May 2nd.
Hop Kee is located at 21 Mott Street, at the corner of Mosco Street, and currently serving takeout from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday-Saturday (212-964-8365; hopkeenyc.com)
Tagged
Hop Kee
Chinatown
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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