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Bellwether Takes Over Old Royal Oak Space, Serves Outstanding Brussels Sprouts And Much More
By
John Del Signore
Published Apr 13, 2012
Modified Apr 13, 2012
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By
John Del Signore
Published Apr 13, 2012
Modified Apr 13, 2012
Share
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Blair Papagni and husband Josh Cohen, who operate the popular Greenpoint restaurant Anella, as well as the nearby restaurant Calyer, St. Vitus bar, and Jimmy's Diner in Williamsburg, have expanded their north Brooklyn empire even further with Bellwether, which recently opened in the space formerly occupied by troubled scenester nightclub Royal Oak. There's a lot less American Spirit smoke (none, in fact) and a lot more sunshine and cheeriness in the space now, not to mention a high-end vintage Klipsch speaker system. Take a look around.
Chef Andres Grundy, a Queens native who's done time at Bouley and Boston's esteemed Clio, as well as Insieme and Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier, is serving a menu of items mostly meant to share, as well as an extensive raw bar of ceviches and tiraditos, crudo and sashimi, oysters and clams on the half shell. Peruse the full menu below, and if you stop by, be sure to order Grundy's outstanding Carmelized Brussels Sprouts with anchovy, horseradish and yuzu ($6)—a deliciously addictive (and nutritious) surprise. Also surprisingly exceptional: the Toasted Grains with green onion, Parmesan, and charred cipollini broth ($10/$17); a hearty sneak attack of rich creaminess.
Papagni and Cohen are in a seemingly flawless groove right now, and Bellwether fits in nicely with their slightly upscale-yet-stylishly-casual aesthetic. The renovation was done by Matthew Zalla, whose company had a hand in such pretty places as Tertulia, Beauty & Essex, and The Box. And the acoustics are very good in the back dining room, where DJs Phil South and Anton Esteban of the No Ordinary Monkey parties are often found spinning vintage house. On select weekends, the tables are cleared to side for impromptu parties that hearken back to the Royal Oak era, minus all the secondhand smoke and douchey drug fiends. Who needs all that when you've got fresh oysters and tasty Fried Shishitos with black sesame salt?
Bellwether // 594 Union Avenue, Brooklyn // (347) 529-4921
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bellwether
restaurant
royal oak
williamsburg
John Del Signore
Originally from the Albany area, John Del Signore has called NYC home since 1995. In addition to his thousands of meticulously-crafted bespoke blog posts for Gothamist, his writing has also been published in The Awl, Deadspin, The Nervous Breakdown, and performed at The Brick Theater in Brooklyn.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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