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Enjoy These Delicious Malaysian Snacks At The Expansive Update Of Kopitiam
By
Scott Lynch
Published Jul 10, 2018
Modified Jul 10, 2018
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Jul 10, 2018
Modified Jul 10, 2018
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Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to "a traditional Malaysian coffee shop."
THE VIBE
In its previous iteration on eastern Canal Street (where it was located for about two years starting in 2015), Kopitiam was a true hole-in-the-wall. The semi-chaotic space featured a small ordering counter, a plastic case for baked goods, a minuscule kitchen area, and a few stools at which to eat. Fine for a quick snack, or a bowl of French Toast, but nowhere you'd want be able to comfortably linger.
The new Kopitiam, though still touting itself as a "Traditional Malaysian Coffee Shop," is pretty much the opposite. Located around the corner on East Broadway, the dining area here is vast, and the furnishings luxurious in comparison to the former spot's offerings. There's seating for about 35 at a wooden communal picnic-type table and a row of two-tops before an exposed brick wall. Supplementary stools run along a counter by the front window overlooking, in slightly elevated fashion, the avenue below.
There's a lot of charming detail here too, from the random pink telephone fixed to the wall just outside the front door to the labeling of the restrooms as "Human" and "Whatever." It's still a counter-ordering restaurant, and you bus your own table when you're done, both of which ensure a casual, hang-as-long-as-you-like atmosphere. And everyone who works here, including the chef/owner Kyo Pang and her new partner/consultant Moonlyn Tsai, will make you feel welcome.
THE BITES
In addition to increasing her space, Pang also expanded the Kopitiam menu, though it's manageable enough that on a single visit last week my party of four was able to eat its way through almost the entire thing. Perhaps unsurprisingly, given our collective fondness for the form, the two noodle dishes were among our favorites: the Spicy Sesame Noodles, made from rice and served soupy and cold, were light, refreshing, and plenty lively; and the Pan Mee, a bowl of wide flat flour noodles, arrived with what seemed like an entire school of tiny fried anchovies floating around on top, adding bursts of flavor and a pleasant chewy texture.
The "national dish of Malaysia," Nasi Lemak, was another winner, with more of those fried anchovies (here mixed with peanuts) capping a mound of coconut rice, egg and cucumber bringing variety to your bites. You should also get the Pulut Panggang, for which rice is grilled and stuffed with funky dried shrimp and fiery sambal belachan, then wrapped in a banana leaf.
The above are all billed as "mains" though you can easily eat two, or just get a couple of items from the snacks section. We made quick work of the five we ordered, including some excellent Lobak, which are deep-fried minced pork rolls in a beancurd wrap, and the Otak Otak, a pair of grilled fish cakes in banana leaves. Also good was the bowl of tender Spicy Stir Fry Duck Tongue (Tsai reminded us that each of these has the little bone still inside), the mushy but rich Pandan Chicken, and a Crab Ball, which was a special that night and arrived sitting in its former owner's shell.
Note that we didn't even venture into the "breakfast" section of the menu, which is served all day and includes various toasts, all of which were delightful at the old Canal Street spot.
THE VERDICT
The new Kopitiam is terrific — a new casual, friendly, inexpensive restaurant serving lots of food you can't get everywhere else.
Kopitiam is located at 151 East Broadway between Rutgers and Pike Streets. Hours during the current soft opening are 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Sunday through Thursday, and from 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. (646-894-7081; kopitiamny.com)
Tagged
Chinatown
kopitiam
quick bites
Two Bridges
original
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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