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Sherman's Serves Good Greek Staples On Division Street
By
Scott Lynch
Published Sep 12, 2017
Modified Sep 12, 2017
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Sep 12, 2017
Modified Sep 12, 2017
Share
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Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to the Division Street Triangle area for plates of Souvlaki Sticks and other Greek favorites.
THE VIBE
The Division Street Triangle and environs, on the western edge of Chinatown, is one of the city's great eating zones, with about a dozen spots—from Dimes to Ice and Vice, Mission Chinese to Scarr's, L.E.S Kitchen to Macaron Parlour—that, when taken together, satisfy pretty much all of my cravings. Last week one of the biggest players in the area, the crew behind the always-hopping Forgetmenot, Kiki's, and 49 Monroe, added to the neighborhood's riches with Sherman's, a cheap counter service restaurant serving Greek staples in a one-time shoe shop.
Ambiance-wise, Sherman's is seriously no frills. Paper maps of Greece are taped up on the longest wall below an open, loft-like storage pallet, and a big chunk of the space has been given over to unused kitchen equipment, presumably from the group's other restaurants. The tables fit as best they can, and are perfectly comfortable for the duration of your meal, which won't be long; there's no booze available, which lessens the temptation to linger. A wheezy old refrigerated beverage unit supplies Greek sodas, bottled water, and yogurt.
But lack of design polish doesn't mean that Sherman's is an unpleasant place to be. Quite the contrary! The staffers here are all total pros, from the affable gentleman in the back taking your order to the hustling busers of tables. The large front windows open up onto the nightly party of Division, so on warm nights there's a unmistakably festive feeling to the proceedings.
THE BITES
The Sherman's menu is short and appealing, and I was able to eat almost everything over the course of two large dinners. The Souvlaki Sticks were terrific, both the tender chicken and fatty pork well-seasoned and accompanied by a potent Tzatziki and triangles of warm, oily pita. If you're eating with a crowd, Sherman's "box of ten" skewers for $18 seems like the obvious move for the table.
The Kebab Platter was also a winner, featuring several grilled, craggy lamb patties—charred and crisp on the outside, moist and funky within—and a mound of decent herbed-up fries. The latter are served softer than I usually like, but the flavor is good and potato-y, and they work well with the meat.
You can also upgrade your fries with a sprinkling of feta, which turns out to be a particularly good idea if you're getting the Rotisserie Chicken. The bird itself is juicy almost throughout, and when I needed a bit of extra succulence (ahem, deep breast), the Mustard Mayo dipping sauce was up to the task. The other dip option (all three of which can purchased separately, as a snack with some pita) is the Spicy Feta Dip, which is basically cheese with hot sauce, and could be creamier.
THE VERDICT
Sherman's manages to stand out as a welcome addition to a neighborhood already packed with excellent options. When the also-Greek Kiki's across the street is too hectic, or you just need a fast, reasonably cheap meal that's not pizza or burgers, this could be your next go-to spot.
Sherman's is located at 121 Division Street between Ludlow and Orchard, and is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. (646-861-2726)
Tagged
Chinatown
division street triangle
quick bites
sherman's
original
Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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