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New Nolita Mini-Diner Mr. Donahue's Has Nine Seats, Excellent Meat-And-Threes
By
Scott Lynch
Published Mar 1, 2016
Modified Mar 1, 2016
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By
Scott Lynch
Published Mar 1, 2016
Modified Mar 1, 2016
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Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to a 9-seat soon-to-be hot spot in Nolita.
THE VIBE
The most important thing to know about the set-up here at Mr. Donahue's is that the place is tiny. There's a bar with five fixed, backless stools (one of which is awkwardly placed around the counter's corner, semi-smooshed against the wall) and a single four top in the corner, outfitted with those same style stools because real chairs would wind up blocking the way to the bathroom.
That adds up to NINE people who can eat here at once. Which, considering this brand new "diner" is run by Ann Redding and Matt Danzer of the always-mobbed, Michelin-starred, Thai-food spot Uncle Boon's, you can count on considerable wait times once word gets out.
As at Uncle Boon's, the space is charmingly tchotchked, with both odd eBay finds from the 1940s and '50s (love the wicker gibbon) as well as personal family mementos from the real-life Mr. Donahue, who was an NYC cab driver, an NYPD detective, and Danzer's grandfather.
The music is retro Americana, ranging from big band stuff to doo-wop. The paper placemats look lacy, the china is from your grandmother's cabinet, and the service is friendly and professional. In a neighborhood overrun with sceney, screamy spots, one can only hope the pleasant, conversation-friendly atmosphere of Mr. Donahue's can remain exactly that.
(Scott Lynch/Gothamist)
THE BITES
The menu takes its structure from the classic "meat-and-three" meals of the South, though the dishes themselves are all over the culinary map. Your first assignment is to choose your main, and it's a tough one, because all four that I tried (and there are only five) were terrific.
The Rotisserie Chicken main is a half bird, the meat rich and remarkably juicy (even the breast!), the skin lightly browned and pleasantly crisp. If you're in the mood for red meat, the thick slab of Roast Beef totally satisfies: served medium, the tender meat is surrounded by a ring of charred fat and salty crust.
I don't usually care for "Chicken Fried" preparations because the breading tends to overwhelm (and hide) lifeless meat, but Danzer's gamey, sweet Pork Cheeks are delicious, the pig face more than holding its own within the crunchy coating. My neighbor at the bar offered me one of her Swedish American Meatballs, so of course I accepted, and was glad I did. This is what I'll be getting next time.
Admission price to all of the above includes your choice of sauce, a tactic which can be a cop out, but in Danzer's kitchen these are welcome complements rather than coverups. The Spicy Avocado does indeed pack heat, and goes well with the chicken; the Steak Sauce has a nice horseradish bite and thus is the obvious choice for the beef; and the Honey Mustard Seed avoids this concoction's usual too-sugary mess and makes a great dip for the fried cheeks.
And then there are the sides! You get one with the cost of your main, and additional sides (you'll want at least one more) are $6 each. I ate most of this section, and there were no duds. The rich and genuinely fiery Spicy Crab Imperial, served in a little tinfoil shell with a trio of saltines, has an appetizer feel to it, as does the lively Egg Drop Soup, which is almost too intense with tumeric and ginger.
As far as the rest goes, the vegetables tend to be more interesting than the starches. Among the standouts are the "Reds" salad of chewy rice, quinoa and pickled cabbage; the Jerk Mushrooms, meaty and redolent with the West Indian staple; and the Veg Medley, with a shout out especially to the sweet Rainbow Chard.
Beer, wine, coffee, tea, and a single boozy dessert round out Mr. Donahue's menu.
(Scott Lynch/Gothamist)
THE VERDICT
Locals will be able to enjoy take-out and delivery soon—the restaurant's still in soft-open mode—but destination diners should definitely get here for Danzer's first-rate meat-and-three's in the near future. With food this good, those nine seats are not going to be there for the taking for long.
Mr. Donahue's is located at 203 Mott Street between Spring and Kenmare, and is open daily for dinner from 5:00 to 11:00 p.m. NO CASH. Credit or Debit cards only. (646-850-9480; mrdonahues.com)
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mr. donahue's
nolita
quick bites
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Scott Lynch
Photojournalist, food writer, preschool receptionist. Love NYC.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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