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One Of Brooklyn's Best Burgers Can Be Found At A Clinton Hill Pizzeria
By
Nell Casey
Published Jul 6, 2015
Modified Jul 6, 2015
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Emily Bolles
By
Nell Casey
Published Jul 6, 2015
Modified Jul 6, 2015
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Clinton Hill newcomer Emily serves some of the city's tastiest pizza pies from their wood-fired oven, but if you don't order their new burger during your meal then you're an insane person. Chef Matt Hyland dropped the burger onto the menu last summer, but some recent tweaks have taken it into some next level territory, as far as burgers go. Just be prepared for heavy napkin usage because this bad boy is messy.
For starters, the burger arrives on a baking sheet, as traditional plates are no match for the oozy, runny, gooeyness of this beast. Hyland uses a dry aged beef to create his patty, which holds together surprisingly well considering the moisture factor in both the meat and the toppings. Speaking of toppings, a heap of sauteed onions adds an umami kick, while a one year aged Grafton cheddar lends a subtle tangy bite and acts as a glue to try (and fail) holding everything together. Finally, a squirt of "Emmy sauce," a secret recipe that toes the line between savory and sweet.
When he first started offering the burger, Hyland was using a brioche bun as the bread component. He's wisely changed course since, switching to a pretzel bun from Tom Cat bakery. The smooth, mahogany exterior can bear the brunt of the burger overload without turning into a soggy mess, while the rye flour and malted barley flour used to make the buns give it that signature pretzel flavor.
Now here's where I may lose you: the burger costs $21, which is nearly double what you'll pay for a similar meal at somewhere like Shake Shack but still less than the $28 Black Label Burger at Minetta Tavern. But the burger is damn good and also comes with a heaping portion of outstanding french fries to booth. The triple-cooked shoestring-style fries are blanched, baked and then finished in the fryer 'til crunchy, after which they are liberally doused in salt. Save hypertension worries for tomorrow.
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