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Food Becomes Art At Andrew Carmellini's Newcomer Little Park
By
Nell Casey
Published Nov 20, 2014
Modified Nov 20, 2014
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Courtesy Little Park
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By
Nell Casey
Published Nov 20, 2014
Modified Nov 20, 2014
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Restaurant industry veteran Andrew Carmellini and his partners Luke Ostrom and Josh Pickard excel at creating beautiful dining experiences, from the tasteful decor to the artfully composed plate. Just as you felt immersed in French life at their gorgeous Lafayette, so too do you get the sense of what you're in for at their new restaurant Little Park in the Smyth Hotel. It feels earthy, with the muted woods and potted flowers; an illuminated ceiling might stand in for the sun, further echoed in golden light fixtures dangling from above. The aesthetic is clean and natural, a sentiment extended through Chef Min Kong's seasonal menu; the alluring dishes may even eclipse the traditional artwork on the walls.
Take the Beetroot Risotto ($15), a dish so vibrantly colored by the purple vegetable it practically leaps off the plate. Same with a serving Butternut Squash ($17), delicate shaves of gourd sensuously draped over creamy nubs of Vermont burrata and topped with spicy nasturtium leaves. A bowl of hearty Whole Wheat Spaghetti ($17) doesn't have the same kind of eye appeal, but it's hard to deny the savory bits of Red Waddle pork and crunchy cabbage once they've hit your taste buds.
Carmellini and Co. are also responsible for the hotel's bar, a sexy cocktail den decorated by a mural of Tribeca history by artist Matthew Benedict. PDT alum Anne Robinson designed the drink menu, which aims to mirror the seasonal, organic theme of the restaurant. Cocktails are pricey, like the Celery's Market ($17) made with Hendrick's Gin, Suze (a root-based French apertif), celery and cream; you can get away with a Brooklyn Lager for $8.
85 West Broadway, (212) 220-4110; website
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andrew carmellini
evening bar
little park
new restaurant and bar radar
smyth
thompson hotel
tribeca
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Nell Casey
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