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Still Got It: Williamsburg's Rye
By
Nell Casey
Published Sep 22, 2014
Modified Sep 22, 2014
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By
Nell Casey
Published Sep 22, 2014
Modified Sep 22, 2014
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In this city, restaurants come and go faster than you can say "sustainable locavore burger." And even though there are great new additions to the culinary landscape popping up every week, you've gotta give kudos to anyone who can stick it out for over a year. With that in mind, we bring you Still Got It, our tribute to establishments that continue to serve mouthwatering meals and drinks long after the buzz has faded—or if the lingering hype is still justified.
Williamsburg's south side is where you'll find Rye, practically hidden on an otherwise quiet block of South 1st Street. In many ways, the spirit of Dressler (RIP) lives on at Rye, as it's run by a former co-chef from that crew, Cal Elliott. At his own space, Elliott prepares unpretentious bistro fare that's both comforting and familiar (Mac & Cheese, a meatloaf sandwich) and something special and just a tiny bit fussy, like Duck Rillette and Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly. The same could be said for the space itself, which boasts that dark, early-Williamsburg-come-turn-of-the-century decor that's both touchingly romantic and, now, de rigeur for many of the area's eateries.
It's date nights when the place really heats up, with waits more or less inevitable during peak weekend hours. Surprisingly—for a borough that acts like it invented brunch—the restaurant is strangely empty on weekend days. Stroll in during the mimosa hours and you could easily snag a table for two or four or even 10. And they're also doing one of the best brunches in the neighborhood, baking fluffy Buttermilk Biscuits, whipping up hearty omelettes and constructing the most delicious salad of all time: the House Smoked Salmon.
Oh, that I could write an ode to this perfectly balanced, wonderfully decadent excuse to call something a salad. A handful of frisée greens constitutes the leafy element, which gets completely coated in runny poached egg and hollandaise. Then there are the Boulanger potatoes, all creamy and onion and just a little bit crispy. And the bacon, of course, applewood smoked and salty. The tower of goodness is completed by a few slices of pink, perfectly smoked salmon, which—when balanced on the fork—manages to hide the sinful components so healthful salad illusions can remain intact.
Rye is located at 247 South 1st Street in Williamsburg, 718-218-8047
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Nell Casey
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