Inside Manon, A Glitzy Meatpacking District Restaurant That Won't Tell You What's In The Cocktails

Nell Casey

Published May 7, 2013

Modified May 14, 2013

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Katie Sokoler / Gothamist

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Nell Casey

Published May 7, 2013

Modified May 14, 2013

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Manon, a new restaurant and lounge that debuted last Friday, dresses the part of swanky club but with a kitchen that dishes out unexpectedly subtle and refined dishes inside the opulent setting. Named for the Jules Massenet opera's title character, the enormous, three-level space embraces the dramatic, with sparkling chandeliers, mirrored wall decorations and plush velvet chairs and couches. Mixed in are more industrial elements, like a wonderfully distressed wood floor, weathered woven carpeting and exposed brick walls that make sure the space doesn't feel completely over the top.

Skeptics might write off the restaurant due to its location and lavish design, but we were pleasantly surprised by what we tried at a press preview last night. Executive Chef Tae Strain—who trained under PUBLIC chef Brad Farmerie—doesn't limit himself to one style of cuisine, instead using flavors and ingredients found across the globe. The raw Steelhead Salmon ($12) echoes deconstructed maki, with crunchy pickled daikon providing tang to the savory miso and wakame. Creamy Grilled Japanese Eggplant ($11) comes buried under a hearty portion of red quinoa, pinenuts and creamy sheep's milk feta, while perfectly tender Viking Village Scallops ($19) rest on top of an umami rich lobster and sea urchin broth, with delicate strips of fennel and grapefruit on top. The Atlantic Cod ($27) has a delightfully crispy exterior that reveals buttery, expertly cooked fish in a savory bath of wilted leeks with a white "harissa" sauce that, while delicious, has very little in common with traditional harissa other than a great peppery flavor.

While the food has its feet on the ground, the cocktail program—designed by Amor y Amargo vet Aaron Polsky—reads like an SNL parody of bespoke cocktail culture. Instead of listing the type of booze in his creations, Polsky offers "tasting notes" to guide imbibes in their cocktail selection. The "Do What thou Wilt" promised "a dark and energizing drink [with] orange, clove, wood, leather, tobacco and sassafras," but tasted like watered down Jaegermeister with a hint of Christmas tree. "In the Shade" at least got it right with its description of "perfumy…orchids on the nose…floral touch;" just imagine drinking your grandmother's drawer sachet. While you may be tempted to experience "strawberries, sea air, straw hats and sunshine" (served up!), you're better off forgoing the mysterious $14 cocktails and ordering a martini or glass of bourbon.

407 West 14th Street between 9th and 10th Avenues; 212-596-7255

Manon Beverage Menu by Nell Casey

Manon Dinner Menu

Manon Dessert Menu

Manon BAR MENU

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Nell Casey

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