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Dior Shows Final Galliano Collection In Emotional Show
By
Jen Chung
Published Mar 5, 2011
Modified Mar 6, 2011
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By
Jen Chung
Published Mar 5, 2011
Modified Mar 6, 2011
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Yesterday, the fashion house Christian Dior showed its Fall/Winter 2011 collection, the final work from its former head designer, John Galliano, in a black tent with black chairs at the Rodin Museum in Paris. Fashion photographer Mario Testino told the NY Times, "It’s more like a funeral." And it was a serious affair: Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano publicly addressed Galliano's distressing behavior at the start o the show, “It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be. What happened last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all."
Galliano was fired earlier in the week after allegations of anti-Semitism and after a video of him saying "I love Hitler" surfaced (Galliano has denied the accusations but also apologized). Yesterday, Toledano, who notably didn't mention Galliano by name, also noted that Christian Dior's sister was deported to Buchenwald and reminded the glittering attendees about "the wonderful and diverse group of people within the House of Dior who devote all their talent and energy to achieving the ultimate in artisanship and femininity, respecting traditional skills and incorporating modern techniques. The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the value and the vision of Monsieur Dior. What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative, and marvelous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people." And, after the models wearing decadent ready-to-wear paraded on the runway, dozens of Dior atelier workers appeared to a standing ovation.
Peter Marino, architect of worldwide Dior stores, told the Telegraph, "There is pathos here. It feels weird, in fact I'm weirded out," while fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier said, "He is a gorgeous designer. To finish like this? Phew!" One longtime Dior client said, "I am wearing Dior and I'm Jewish," and supermodel Natalia Vodianova said, "It’s just so sad. But Dior has to survive without John... John is under the influence of a disease beyond his power."
Times critic Cathy Horyn said of the fashions shown, "The clothes were quintessential Dior: smart-looking jackets in wool plaids, cute skirts with platform boots, kittenish furs worked with ribbon, and lingerie-inspired evening clothes." It's unclear who the next Dior designer will be—names range from Ricardo Tisci of Givenchy to Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, as well as Peter Copping of Nina Ricci. The Christian Dior brand did about $25 billion in business last year; the part Galliano led is just about 4% of the business.
Galliano faces prosecution
Tagged
anti semitism
christian dior
fashion
gallery
john galliano
paris
sidney toledano
Jen Chung
Jen Chung is a former WNYC and Gothamist editor.
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