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Jewish Delis in LA Beat NYC, Says Author With Death Wish
By
John Del Signore
Published Oct 21, 2009
Modified Oct 21, 2009
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Tien Mao
By
John Del Signore
Published Oct 21, 2009
Modified Oct 21, 2009
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The author of the new book Save the Deli has declared that LA has better Jewish delis than NYC, but he only says such hurtful things because he wants to see New York do better. We haven't read David Sax's heretical book, but the LA Times did, and of course they're gloating over there, because Sax says, "The [delis] that are most inspiring, the ones that people cling to, the ones that people enshrine for years and years are the traditional Jewish delis. And Los Angeles just happens to have more of them than any city I've been to." How can that be?!
Part of it has to do with the decline in Jewish delis here in New York, or so says Sax: "In the 1930s there were something along the lines of 1,500 kosher delis in New York. Now, there are about two dozen in all of New York City. That's an 80% to 90% decline." Indeed, the iconic Second Avenue Deli was replaced by a Chase Bank in the East Village, only to resurface on 33rd Street.
Meanwhile, Los Angeles delis have carved out a niche market. Over there in La La Land, "delis are the height of midcentury, suburban modernity. If New York delis are as intimate and familiar as your bubbe's kitchen, then Los Angeles delis, with their spacious banquettes, polite wait staff and abundant parking, are like younger, sexier spokesmodels for the deli world." Well, Sax, if you really think so, you can just stay on the left coast and marry one.
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deli
jewish
la
los angeles
new york
save the deli
John Del Signore
Originally from the Albany area, John Del Signore has called NYC home since 1995. In addition to his thousands of meticulously-crafted bespoke blog posts for Gothamist, his writing has also been published in The Awl, Deadspin, The Nervous Breakdown, and performed at The Brick Theater in Brooklyn.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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