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SHO Shaun Hergatt Goes For The Gold In The Financial District
By
John Del Signore
Published Jul 9, 2009
Modified Jul 9, 2009
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By
John Del Signore
Published Jul 9, 2009
Modified Jul 9, 2009
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Down the block from the New York Stock Exchange, across the street from Claremont Prep School, and hidden behind construction scaffolding on the second floor of the Setai Hotel, you'll find one of the city's best new fine dining restaurants: SHO Shaun Hergatt, which quietly opened last month. And despite its elegant interior and formal service, it's not as out of touch with the economy as you might expect; at $69, Chef Hergatt's three course prix fixe is actually a good deal, considering the impeccable quality of the ingredients and dazzling execution.
During a recent visit, Hergatt, an intense Australian who did time at the now-closed Atelier in midtown, let us sample some of the dishes and took us for a tour of the gigantic, gorgeous space, pointing out that the ceiling tiles hanging on the wall were recovered from a temple in Thailand that was being demolished. Other design elements include enormous fountains, antique Chinese calligraphy brushes, mother of pearl table tops and shell dessert trays, Sanskrit prayer scrolls from Burma, lots of Brazilian walnut, and a Tibetan bell hidden in salt to ward off bad spirits.
But does Hergatt have a prayer bell to draw in good, paying customers? He's hoping the restaurant's versatility will appeal to a broad crowd, so the space is divided up into a relaxed bar and lounge, a formal dining room with a commanding view of the open kitchen, a second smaller bar, and a glassy wine tasting room. And if the food we sampled off Hergatt's "modern French, Asian-accented" menu was at all representative, we think he may actually pull this off. (Blogger Always Hungry NY predicts SHO will be Frank Bruni's last four star review before stepping down.)
The Slow Roasted Langoustines with Potato Lace, Burmese Lobster Bisque was rich and unforgettable; and the Slow Poached Halibut with silky Celeriac, White Asparagus, and Black Truffle was tender as a cloud. And the Peekytoe Crab with Galangal Gelee and Santa Barbara Uni isn't exactly the sort of thing we eat every day, and that's an outrage. At the bar, cocktails are a cost-prohibitive $14, but a Tennesse Trader (Bourbon, White Peach Puree, Honey Syrup, Ginger Ale) was smooth, sweet and didn't disappoint. The bottom line here is that Hergatt's a seriously ambitious chef, and if you've got a hundred bucks or so to drop on a fancy dinner, you'll get your money's worth here. Peruse the menu below.
SHO Shaun Hergatt // The Setai, New York, Second Level 40 Broad Street (at Exchange Place) // (212) 809-3993
The menu at SHO Shaun Hergatt is served á la carte, but is also recommended as a two course prix fixe for $57 and a three course prix fixe for $69. Appetizers: $16 - $20 Main Courses: $25 - $35 Desserts: $12
Appetizer
Kona Kampachi
Live Geoduck, young Ginger and Soy
Salad of Organic Tokyo Turnips
Baby Beets, Garden Radish, Persian Feta
Spiced Double Duck Consommé
Ravioli Filled with Chicken and Truffles
Zucchini Blossoms filled with Blue Prawns
Lemongrass and Kaffir Lime leaf Scented Sambal
Salt Pressed ‘Petuna’ Tasmanian Ocean Trout
Nashi Pear, Kalamansi Dressing
Hand Picked Peekytoe Crab
Galangal Gelee, Santa Barbara Uni
Red Chili and Coconut Milk Glazed Quail
Shiitake, Wilted Tetragonia
Millefeuille of Foie Gras
Pain D’Epices Tuiles, Banyuls Reduction
Slow Roasted Langoustines
Potato Lace, Burmese Lobster Bisque
The Golden Egg
Cauliflower Puree, Caviar
(Supplement 15)
Main Course
Caramelized Scottish Salmon
Hon Shemiji, Tatsoi, thai Basil Froth
Steamed Black Bass
Ginger Infused Broth, Scallion Oil, “Nishiki” Rice Wafer
Slow Poached Halibut
Silky Celeriac, White asparagus, Black Truffle
Maine Lobster “Poêlé”
English Peas, Saffron and Verjus Emulsion
(Supplement 10)
Yogurt Marinated Poussin
Urfa Spice, Adzuki, Grain Mustard
Muscovy Duck Breast
Sautéed Foie Gras, Red Hibiscus, Sauce Bigarade
Milk Fed Veal Tenderloin
Pommes Almondine, Mirepoix Vegetables, Morels
Thai Pepper Dusted Beef
Glazed Beef Cheek, Pearl Onion Soubise
“River and Glenn” Rabbit Loins
Coco Beans, Parsnip Roesti, Natural Sauce
Pearl Barley Risotto
Maitake Mushrooms, Baby Swiss Chard
Chef Shaun Hergatt
Dessert Wines
ChÂteau Guiraud, Sauternes 1998 $26
Petit Manseng, ‘Symphonie de Novembre,’ Domaine Cauhape, Jurançon 2005 $14
Braquetto d’Aqui Braida, Piemonte 2007 $12
Gewurztraminer, ‘Passito,’ Francis Tannahill, Oregon 2006 $20
Fortified Wines
Coume del mas, ‘quintessence,’ Banyuls 2005 $22
Graham’s 20 year tawny, Oporto NV $19
Dow’s ‘quinta do bonfim,’ Oporto 1996 $18
Campbell’s, Muscat, Ruthgerglen, NV $9
Fortified Sake
Katsuyama Genroku Aged Junmai, Miyagi $22
Desserts
Chocolate and Jasmine Inspiration
Pomelo Confit, Floral Jasmine Tea Sorbet
Rhubarb Tart
Ginger Cremeux, Lychee Sorbet
Citrus Palette
Milk Chocolate Ganache, Passionfruit Ice Cream,
Java Sphere
Candied Cocoa Nibs, Mandarin Chantilly
Rosella Tapioca
Lemongrass Consommé, Pink Guava Sorbet
Banana Millefeuille
Jackfruit Confit, Crème Fraîche Sorbet
Cheese
Farm House Cheeses
Fresh Honeycomb, Cranberry and Pecan Loaf
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John Del Signore
Originally from the Albany area, John Del Signore has called NYC home since 1995. In addition to his thousands of meticulously-crafted bespoke blog posts for Gothamist, his writing has also been published in The Awl, Deadspin, The Nervous Breakdown, and performed at The Brick Theater in Brooklyn.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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