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Food

New Restaurants on the Radar: Cookie Road, Piccola Cucina, Aqualis Grill


By

John Del Signore

Published Jul 2, 2009

Modified Jul 2, 2009


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Cookie Road, outside and in.

 

John Del Signore/Gothamist


By

John Del Signore

Published Jul 2, 2009

Modified Jul 2, 2009


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Cookie Road: Sometime last winter, a building on the corner of Franklin and Oak in Greenpoint was cryptically painted with happy illustrations about a mythical "Cookie Road." But it was many months before that road finally led to the promised land: a cozy bakery just down the block specializing in cookies, cakes, pastries, tea, and first-rate espresso. The charming Polish owners, Aneta and Jerzy Szot, tell us they opened the establishment at the bidding of friends who just couldn't get enough of their baking. There are a few chairs by the window inside, and several benches for relaxing under shady awnings outside. Selections last week included a rich but not-too-sweet lemon chocolate cheescake, red velvet cupcakes, hand-decorated cookies, key lime pies, and chocolate chiffon cakes. And if you take a jaunt down Cookie Road, definitely order one of their excellent espressos; the Szots say they have their beans regularly shipped overnight from the renowned Counter Culture coffee in North Carolina. 94 Franklin Street, Greenpoint; (718) 383-8094

Piccola Cucina: Chef and owner Philip Guardione, a native of Sicily, brings classics like arancini, vitello tonatto, and fresh tagliolini with clams and bottarga to a small, 300-square-foot, 22 seat restaurant. Guardione is devoted to salumi sliced to order, and has installed a cherry red Berkel slicer in the small space, which competes with Jonathan Adler lamps that have been made in the shape of Campari bottle. Appetizers, including Grilled octopus with eggplant puree and fennel-orange salad, are $11-$15; the most expensive entree here is $28. Most of the others, including tuna belly with eggplant, basil oil and balsamic cream, hover between the $21-25 price point. (Hugh Merwin)184 Prince Street; (212) 625-3200

Aqualis Grill: Albanian-born first-time restaurateur Gorian Papa opens this Mediterranean-inspired seafood spot tonight in the former Epoca space in Fort Greene. Chef John Tsakinis, a former chef de cuisine at midtown’s Kellari Taverna, has put together a menu emphasizing whole grilled fish simply dressed in custom vinaigrettes, plus a small number of "composed fish entrées" accompanied by greenmarket side dishes. That includes a Cod Filet with sautéed spinach ($18), a Sword Fish Kebob with steamed wild greens & saffron vinaigrette ($19), and appetizers like lightly grilled sardines with fresh herbs & olive oil ($9). The 46-seat space has brick walls, dark wood floors, and a large industrial chandelier; a dainty five-seat bar is situated just beyond a façade of French doors. No liquor license yet, but the current beverage menu features a variety of house-made sodas. 773 Fulton Street, Fort Greene; (718)797-3494

Tagged

Aqualis Grill

cookie road

new

opening

Piccola Cucina

restaurant


John Del Signore

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Originally from the Albany area, John Del Signore has called NYC home since 1995. In addition to his thousands of meticulously-crafted bespoke blog posts for Gothamist, his writing has also been published in The Awl, Deadspin, The Nervous Breakdown, and performed at The Brick Theater in Brooklyn.

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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations


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