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Food

Boulud Previews DBGB Kitchen and Bar

Hugh Merwin

Published May 18, 2009

Modified May 18, 2009

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Hugh Merwin

Published May 18, 2009

Modified May 18, 2009

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The chef Daniel Boulud unveiled his newest space, called DBGB Kitchen and Bar, to the media this past weekend. Located on the Bowery, the 194-seat “sausage and beer” restaurant (including a 14-seat private dining room and 40 more in the more casual bar area) has a projected opening date of the first week in June and is still very much under construction: On Saturday, chairs were wrapped up in paper and buckets of Spackle were stacked behind the bar. The chef nonetheless took the unusual move of laying his plywood bare and sharing some bites from the restaurant’s opening menu.

Boulud may be a 4-star chef who runs an empire of ten restaurants total (five of those restaurants are out-of-state) but he's not stuffy and high-strung. On Saturday, wearing a chef’s jacket, jeans, and reading glasses, Boulud climbed to the top of an orange fiberglass ladder, smiled, and politely introduced his team, including executive chef Jim Leiken. Evoking Ray Liotta in Goodfellas, he started: “Ever since I can remember, I always loved sausage.”

Keeping with the sausage theme, DBGB has an in-house chef charcutier named Sebastien Loyzance who’ll make wursts, dogs, and boudin basque.
The menu feature 14 kinds of sausages ($12-18). A tête à pied section of the menu is devoted to things like trotters and roasted marrow bones and four burgers ($11-16) include one topped with Daisy May’s pulled pork (Boulud’s favorite barbecue in the city) jalepeño mayo, lettuce, and mustard/vinegar slaw, served on a cheddar-cornbread bun.
A full service ice cream cart will tour the banquettes with vanilla cookies, marshmallows, and a sundae-making arsenal at the ready. In-house pastry chef Mimi Eberhardt will preside over the pastel-colored crunchies and hot fudge as well as a few more-French desserts like baba au rhum with raisin ice cream and pineapple compote.
Colin Alevras, chef/owner of the former Tasting Room, is DBGB’s sommelier. The 22 taps will pour mostly craft beers including the local Six Point Otis, a stout from Red Hook, and, from a little up the Hudson, some selections from Captain Lawrence. Beer, starting at $6, is listed in terms of ascending alcohol percentage. Wines by the glass will also start at $6 and the restaurant features house red and house white “on tap:” two wines from Long Island straight from the keg, as it were.

DBGB is opening the first week in June. Boulud mentioned he wanted DBGB to have a “kitchen supply feel,” evoking the Bowery's all-but-gone wholesale equipment district where crystalline condo spires have sprouted in place of battered Hobart mixers. The restaurant is essentially an open kitchen separated from the dining room with a perimeter of tall, stained ash shelves. Copper pots of all kinds—including aspic molds, chestnut roasters, and giant cauldrons—have donated to Boulud by a global hit list of famous chefs (Bourdain, Batali, Ducasse) for display. The front area of the restaurant will be a more casual café; its walls will be lined with bistro-style mirrors sporting quotes about food as well as the daily specials.

DBGB // 299 Bowery // (212) 933-5300

Photo: Boulud introduces DBGB chef Jim Leiken.

Tagged

bowery

captain Lawrence

chefs

colin alevras

daniel boulud

dbgb

jim leiken

mimi eberhardt

six point

Hugh Merwin

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