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Despite Lean Times, the UWS Gets Fatty Crab

Hugh Merwin

Published Mar 5, 2009

Modified Mar 5, 2009

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Hugh Merwin

Published Mar 5, 2009

Modified Mar 5, 2009

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Tearing a page from his own tried-and-true Southeast Asian playbook (but more literally found in Keith H. Steinkraus’ massive 776 page tome The Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods) chef Zak Pelaccio’s new Fatty Crab opened last night on the Upper West Side. The new location has more seats (74 total, with 20 outdoor spots coming when the weather turns). The wood tabletops are unfinished, and giant wall mural of Kuala Lumpur reminds diners that they’re not in Malaysia. On the other hand, dining room smells will no doubt forcibly remind diners of Pelaccio and chef de cuisine Corwin Kave’s unbounded love for all things belacan, a kind of fermented shrimp paste typically sold in blocks that has become the cornerstone of all things Fatty.

The strong, in-house cocktail program designed by Allan Katz includes a rum and coconut water concoction, as well as the Fatty Crab familiar Poona Club, made from Rangur lime gin with vermouth, blood orange, and bitters. That drink has a storied and apocryphal history (read: a fake name) on purpose. “Mixologists,” cocktail inventor Dave Wondrich told the Times a few years ago, ''are trying to sneak their drinks into the canon by coming up with names that sound a hundred years old.'' Fatty Crab also sells 22 oz. Rogue Morimoto Black Obi Sobas, named for the perpetually cheerful Iron Chef, for $18.

Food includes chicken wings named for a former Kuala Lumpur red light district ($8), pickles named for a royal family, Malay state, and Monorail station ($7), and some Indonesian fried rice ($16). Fatty Crab signature dishes Oyster Omelet Ashraf (MP) and Fatty Duck ($14) will also be available, prompting all manners of spiciness, and eventually, food writers reaching for thesauruses. No matter. At Fatty Crab UWS one question remains, and it’s a paraphrase from Once Upon a Time in Mexico. It goes like this: Are you a belacan, or a belacan’t? The full, Fatty Crab UWS menu after the jump.

Fatty Crab UWS, 2170 Broadway (at 77th), (212) 496-2722

Snacks
Green Mango with Chili-Sugar-Salt 6
Jalan Alor Chicken Wings 8
Pickles Raja Chulan 7
Steamed Buns - pork or veggie 9
Fatty Tea Sandwiches - pork belly, sambal aioli 8
Fatty Sliders - mini pork & beef burgers 9
Chicken or Scallop Satay- cilantro, chili, shallot, egg, peanut sauce 12

Salads
Green Mango Salad 10
Watermelon Pickle and Crispy Pork 13
Shrimp Sambal - bibb lettuce, charred scallion, coconut 16

Noodles/Soups/Rice
Nasi Goreng- Indonesian fried rice 16
Haianese Chicken Rice- poached chicken breast, sweet soy, ginger 18
Wonton Mee - shrimp and pork wontons, fried noodles 14/17
Lo Si Fun - short rice noodles, chinese sausage, shiitake 14
Coconut Poached Bass - laifun, vietnamese mint 19
Java Mee - egg noodle, fish cake, shrimp, thai basil 18
Malay Fish Fry - turmeric tempura, crab curry, green chili, tamaki 14
Nasi Lemak - coconut rice, chicken curry, slow poached egg 22

Fatty’s Specialties
Oyster Omelet Ashraf- market oysters, sweet soy, sriracha MP
Chili Crab - crab, chili sauce, white toast MP
Singaporean Black Pepper Mussels 16
Skate Panggang - grilled on a banana leaf, sambal udang kering 14
Short Rib Rendang - braised with kaffir lime, coconut, chili 25
Chicken Claypot - ginger, green chili, tofu 14
Fatty Duck - steamed, fried, toasted tamaki 14

Vegetables
Kang Kong Belacan 11
Chinese Broccoli w/ Salted Fish 9
Steamed Baby Bok Choy 9

Rice Bowls
Rice 3
Coconut Rice 4
Chicken Rice 4

Tagged

Allan Katz

chefs

Corwin Kave

Dave Wondrich

fatty crab

kuala lumpur

zak pelaccio

Hugh Merwin

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