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Openings Roundup: Islero, Commerce, Mercato 55
By
John Del Signore
Published Feb 8, 2008
Modified Mar 7, 2008
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By
John Del Signore
Published Feb 8, 2008
Modified Mar 7, 2008
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Islero: This new Spanish restaurant (pictured) takes its name from the bull that killed famous toreador “Manolete” in 1947, shocking the nation and resulting in three days of Franco-decreed mourning, during which only funeral dirges were permitted on the radio. Anyway, there’s no bull on the menu, but chef Jessica Floyd, previously of DB Bistro, does have an appetizer of crispy pork belly, olive oil poached apple, fino vinegar jus and candied pinollas. An entrée of molasses rubbed duck breast, crispy leg, black bean cassoulet and duck bacon catches our eye. Yep, duck bacon. There are also a million small plates to choose from and a frozen peanut butter mousse with shaved white chocolate for dessert. Oh, and specialty cocktails like the namesake Ginter Bull: Stoli vodka, buddled ginger & a hint of white peach nectar. Toro! 247 East 50th Street. (212) 752-1414
Commerce: Located in a so-charming-you-could-just-die 1911 carriage house on a tree-lined West Village block, Commerce is the hotly anticipated new inhabitant of what was once a speakeasy, then Blue Mill Tavern, then Grange Hall, then Blue Mill tavern again in 2004, then nothing. Is the romantic space cursed, haunted or just waiting for the right culinary alchemy to bring it back to life? Owners Tony Zazula and chef Harold Moore (Montrachet) began applying the defibrillator last night with classic American fare accented with entrees like chestnut pappardelle with boar ragu. There’s also warm oysters in champagne with potatoes, leeks and caviar, and rare beef tataki with ginger soy and shiso. Sink into a deluxe booth or choose from the 150-bottle wine list (some bottles under $35) at the gorgeous Art-Deco bar; a 20% discount on food lasts until Monday. 50 Commerce Street. (212) 524-2301.
Mercato 55: The other buzzed-about opening this week is this Meatpacking District African brasserie. The menu at Mercato 55 – the name means “market” in Italian – is intended to evoke the vibe of Africa's largest outdoor market, Addis Merkato in Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia. Two floors accommodate 150 diners; earth tones, exposed wood and murals painted with scenes from African markets add to the intended ambience. The food isn’t confined to Ethiopian fare, but there are Ethiopian classics like a dish of chicken stewed with onions, ginger, garlic, and spices served in a cast-iron pot, accompanied by traditional injera bread. A small plates menu has a wide range of dishes, such as merguez sausage, corn pap and chili mustard sauce. Large plates cost $16-$32; the cheapest being a burger with green tomato and awase mayo. And dessert brings out Homer Simpson’s inner soul brother: African doughnuts. 55 Gansevoort St. (212) 255-8555.
Tagged
african. west village
art
commerce
commerce street
District
Gansevoort St
homer simpson
Islero
italian
meatpacking district
Mercato 55
new
new york
open
opening
restaurant
this week
west village
John Del Signore
Originally from the Albany area, John Del Signore has called NYC home since 1995. In addition to his thousands of meticulously-crafted bespoke blog posts for Gothamist, his writing has also been published in The Awl, Deadspin, The Nervous Breakdown, and performed at The Brick Theater in Brooklyn.
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Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
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