Gothamist
A non-profit newsroom, powered by WNYC.
Gothamist
Listen Live
Food
The Empire of "Feh" - Misadventures of a Restauranteur in King's County
By
Jeremy Frost
Published Aug 26, 2004
Modified Mar 7, 2008
Share
FacebookTwitterRedditEmail
Never miss a story
Email address
By submitting your information, you're agreeing to receive communications from New York Public Radio in accordance with our Terms .
By
Jeremy Frost
Published Aug 26, 2004
Modified Mar 7, 2008
Share
FacebookTwitterRedditEmail
We rely on your support to make local news available to all
Make your contribution now and help Gothamist thrive in 2026. Donate today
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
If you are unfamiliar with the oft-used term "feh" it is defined by one Yiddish-to-English dictionary as: "It stinks! No good."
Suffice to say, "feh" is most certainly not what Gothamist looks for in a dining experience. But we can't help but notice that one Brooklyn restauranteur, Nando Ghorchian, has perfected the artform of the middling meal with a string of mediocre haunts in Brooklyn Heights, ranging from Montague Street's Caffe Buon Gusto to the recently shuttered Cafe del Mar and Balzar (pictured) on Henry Street. He's also started up what The Brooklyn Papers has referred to as a "schizophrenic" jazz club-restaurant called Cafe 111 on Court Street.
Brooklyn Heights' Montague and Court Streets have long been considered home to an array of sub-par eateries - in part due to exorbitant rent and the pedestrian tastebuds of the office workers and courthouse jurors that crowd the area at lunchtime. But Ghorchian's other restaurant attempts seem more than a bit off-the-mark, considering that their strictly residential locales on Henry necessitate attracting local diners. Between hot spots like the neighborhood fave Noodle Pudding, various Middle Eastern options on Atlantic and the proximity to Smith Street's gourmet delights, how does Ghorchian compete?
Let's just say he isn't bringing home the gold. During Gothamist's trips to his restaurants, grubby grub, drab decor and waitstaff that left you waiting seemed the norm. To top it off, we couldn't help but laugh at the wine glasses that Cafe del Mar proffered when we ordered a bottle of vino. They were so gargantuan that we couldn't put them down on our tiny table for two without clinking.
And now, it appears that Ghorchian is unveiling two new restaurants for fans of "feh." El Cubanito just opened at 78 Henry with a Latin-theme -- and a menu that spells ribs with two "b's." And, soon-to-open in the eatery location formally-known-as-Balzar will be Ghorchian's take on a French bistro: Chez Henry.
Gothamist can't help but wonder what Yiddish phrases will be needed to describe these new establishments. The term "drek" is coming to mind...
-- Vittles Vamp
Tagged
A HREF
bistro
brooklyn
brooklyn heights
Brooklyn Papers
court
Court Street
dining
food
gothamist
heights
henry street
hot spots
In the 'Hood
jazz club
Middle Eastern
montague street
pedestrian
restaurants
smith street
The Brooklyn
The Brooklyn Papers
the office
Vittles Vamp
wine
Jeremy Frost
Read more
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
Gothamist is funded by sponsors and member donations
MORE food
Where are the cheapest drinks in NYC? A new report details the city's average prices.
The median price of a cocktail in the city is now $16, and $9 for a draft beer.
By
Hannah Frishberg
Published Oct 19, 2026
North African restaurants are rare in NYC. These 10 are the best.
Egyptian, Moroccan, Algerian and Tunisian food is delicious but underrepresented in the city.
By
Robert Sietsema
Food
North African restaurants are rare in NYC. These 10 are the best.
Egyptian, Moroccan, Algerian and Tunisian food is delicious but underrepresented in the city.
By
Robert Sietsema
10 dishes that demonstrate the delicious diversity of curry in New York City
By
Robert Sietsema
Frozen yogurt is back in New York City. So are the super long lines.
By
Sonia Rao
5 NYC banana puddings as good as Magnolia's
By
Hannah Frishberg
Never miss a story
Catch up on the most important headlines with a roundup of essential NYC stories, delivered to your inbox daily.
Sign upEmail address
By submitting your information, you're agreeing to receive communications from New York Public Radio in accordance with our Terms .